Most of us genealogists have wished one time or another that
we could really “know” how our ancestors lived. We want to know what their
world was like. What was a typical day like in the life of our ancestor? How
did our ancestors handle life’s challenges? In other words, we wish we could walk in their shoes.
For many of us one of the most fascinating times of our
ancestors’ lives is when they emigrated from their homelands. What made them
leave? How did they feel about leaving?
What was the journey to America like for them? Where did they first
settle in America?
I stumbled across a travel diary written in 1833 that gave
me the opportunity to follow the journey of a party of Swiss German emigrants
through France to the port of Le Havre, across the Atlantic Ocean, across the
eastern part of the US on the Erie Canal and down the Mississippi River to St.
Louis. How did I find this wonderful piece of history?
I had been preparing for a research trip to Chicago for
several months. I described this preparation in my posts of June 24, 2012, July 4, 2012, and
August 21, 2012.
I learned from reading genealogical how-to
books how important it is to prepare for a research trip by studying the
websites of the sites you plan to visit. When I looked up the Newberry Library
website, I found there is an on-line catalog that you can use from home to
search for materials. Many libraries and
archives have this feature, so it is a good idea to check out the availability
of catalog searching at home no matter your research destination. This could
you save valuable on-the-ground research time.
In the Newberry on-line catalog,
I searched for: “Swiss immigration to America,” and on the third page of the
results, this title leapt out from the rest:
New Switzerland in Illinois : as described by two early Swiss
settlers, Kaspar Köpfli and Johann Jacob Eggen in Spiegel von Amerika and
Aufzeichnungen aus Highlands Gründungszeit / translated from the German by
Jennie Latzer Kaeser and Manfred Hartwin D, 1977, Book Library Location: General Collections 2ndfloor Call Number: F550.S9 S8131987
On the first day of my two-day sojourn at the Newberry, I
went to the second floor and filled out a research request form for the diary. The
document was written in 1833 by Joseph Suppiger, Jr., a nephew of Dr. Kaspar
Koepfli, who was the leader of the group who were heading to America.
As I leaved through Mr. Suppiger’s diary, I was astounded to
find that so many of the concerns of these nineteenth century travelers were
similar to the ones we have today. Although technology has changed dramatically
and made much about moving around the world or within a country easier, some
things don’t change, such as:
- Having to plan ahead: starting back at home the traveler looks into modes of transportation, plans an itinerary, makes a budget
- Before a big move, people tend to get rid of extra furniture, large pieces that would cost too much to ship or transport. Sometimes under the pressure of moving deadlines, people are forced to part with possessions for much less than they think they are worth.
- Often times, when a traveler gets to the place that he or she saw or read about in a brochure, the actual accommodations don’t match up
- On the road breakdowns may occur when they are least expected
- Unexpected fees, tolls and other costs can overwhelm a traveler’s budget
- Travelers look for guidebooks and tips from those who have gone before
Fishing Boats Leaving the Harbor, Le Havre {{PD-1923}},wikimedia.org |
I felt so privileged to travel with Mr. Suppiger across
France to the port of Havre, to see with his eyes what the country was like and
to watch the leaders in his group negotiate with wagon drivers and inn keepers
on the road to the port city. Then Mr. Suppiger introduces his reader to the
perils of seeking a seaworthy boat in which to cross the Atlantic. And that is
no easy task. It seems that even back then, people tried to cheat travelers out
of their money through scams ranging from taking deposits on ships that never
showed up or that were in such poor condition that no person in his/her right
mind would trust them to cross the ocean to promising stellar accommodations
and delivering standing room only on the deck, if you were lucky.
Winter North Atlantic -
Water over deck and hatches, storm with huge waves, wikimedia.org
|
And how many of us long to know what the ocean voyage to
America was like for our ancestors? Mr. Suppiger keeps us so well informed of
the weather conditions, the food, the scenery, and the types of accommodations
suffered by passengers that we feel we are right there with them.
Once the Swiss party reaches New York, we get a real treat:
we see the New York of 1833 through Mr. Suppiger’s eyes:
“The shops here rival in splendor those in Paris. I would not have expected to find shops filled with such fine wares….It is much more agreeable to walk through the straight, regularly laid-out streets here than in Paris.” (p. 89)
Below we see an example of 19th century New York department store architecture, albeit some years after Mr. Suppiger's visit, in this photo of Bloomingdales, a company that was started in 1860 by two brothers named Lyman and Joseph Bloomingdale.
“The shops here rival in splendor those in Paris. I would not have expected to find shops filled with such fine wares….It is much more agreeable to walk through the straight, regularly laid-out streets here than in Paris.” (p. 89)
Below we see an example of 19th century New York department store architecture, albeit some years after Mr. Suppiger's visit, in this photo of Bloomingdales, a company that was started in 1860 by two brothers named Lyman and Joseph Bloomingdale.
Bloomingdale's 59th Street store in New York in the late 1800s. Photo: Courtesy Of Bloomingdale's / SF |
The next part of the diary takes us up the Erie Canal, from Albany to Buffalo, and
what a journey it is! We have the rare opportunity to see America the way it
looked in the early 1800s as Mr. Suppiger describes the land that he sees as
the boat goes up the canal.
The Ohio and Erie Canal in 1902 Source: http://ech.cwru.edu/ech-cgi/article.pl?id=OAEC Wikimedia.org |
In many places he describes seeing virgin forests
with a few very small settlements cropping up here and there. He is very
excited when he sees small hills that break up the monotonous flatlands. Suppiger is amazed at the traffic on the
canal:
“The activity on this canal must be seen to be believed. Not
the busiest waterway in Switzerland…can be compared with it. There are said to
be thirteen hundred canalboats operating on it.” (p. 100)
Duchess (steamboat) promotional handbill, front.
Printed ca. 1888, wikimedia.org
|
At the end of the canal in Buffalo, the group engages a
steamboat for the trip down the Mississippi to St. Louis when the diary ends. In
order to provide the reader with an idea of what the new world was like to these
Swiss emigrants, the editor, John C. Abbott, included portions of two more
documents written by other members of the group.
First, we need to clarify that Dr. Kaspar Koepfli and his
party did not purchase land in St. Louis or any other place in Missouri for a
couple of reasons; one being that they found no parcel that had sufficient
cleared land ready for farming. And second, they did not want to settle in a
state that allowed slavery.
After much searching, Dr. Koepfli and his group purchased a
site 30 miles from St. Louis across the Mississippi in Illinois that they named
“New Switzerland” and which was later called “Highland.” Dr. Koepfli described
the land as:
“…a lovely district, richly endowed by nature….You will find
it has good, fertile soil in which most products can be raised at a profit.
There is prairie as far as one can see, with sufficient grazing for herds of a
thousand cattle….Also, there is enough wood in the forests for building a large
number of farms. The region has good water, with springs in the woods….it is
near enough to the Mississippi so that produce can be hauled to St. Louis
without great expense.” (p. 136)
One of the most valuable parts of the diary and the
accompanying descriptions of New Switzerland are the notes to those who follow.
Here Mr. Suppiger and members of the Koepfli family offer their advice to
perspective emigrants. It is so like a Frommers Guide that I wonder once more,
is there anything new under the sun?
So ends the journey
to New Switzerland. I hope that you can find this book and get a glimpse into
19th century America.